Not island fine.

“OK. Line them up and tell them we’ll be waiting for our dinner tributes at the rear of the vessel.”©

You’ve been there.

All it takes is rolling over and waking up on the wrong side, then nothing goes right.

And snarky people say things like “Well, what did you expect? You should have known.”

Bolivar Peninsula couldn’t rollover and pass out of the way of Hurricane Ike a few years ago. FEMA pictures pretty much tell the tale.

Proof you can build a hurricane proof house if you try. Yellow house sole surviving structure of 2008 Hurricane Ike/Gilchrist, TX.(USPD/Commmons.wikimedia.org)

Wider view of the narrow Bolivar Peninsula devastated by the storm.The peninsula is about 27 miles long, maybe 3 miles wide at the widest point. (USPD/Commons.wikimedia.org)

To get you oriented: Bolivar was on the east/worst/dirty side of the rotating hurricane that hit the Texas coast. Bacliff and San Leon, across the Bay on the mainland, also looked like a war zone while the only damage our house (on left edge of the map middle) was a dented gutter from a neighbor’s unsecured board. The main part of Houston is located off the top left corner of this map. Newcomers: please do not evacuate Houston if a storm comes: You are not on the coast, you are on higher ground, and there are no dikes around Houston to fail, so please don’t clog the highways leaving out of fear.(USPD/Commons.wikimedia.org)

Finding yet another reason to avoid work, we recently decided to check on Bolivar, a trip that is fastest by going to Galveston Island, then taking the Bolivar Ferry to the Peninsula.

Although they run as many as 4 ferries during peak times, the lines can be long with a wait of over two hours – unless you are a Bolivar resident or doctor with a pass or a medical emergency and eligible for the fast lane. (Galveston is the big regional hospital and medical school). Mid week is the time for a rare uncrowded ferry trip across. It’s only a 3 mile ride across.

On the ferry looking back to Galveston Island’s bay side. Left of center is the Regional Medical Center/UTMB Medical School (1891) whose research labs contain samples of the very worst viruses/infectious diseases in the world. Next to the Medical Center complex are the wharfs, cruise ship docks, and ship yard.(image:©)

On the way across Galveston Bay to Bolivar. Incoming ferry on right. Squint at the horizon to see Seawolf Park on Pelican Island with its’ destroyer escort, submarine, and the WWI SS Selma, the largest concrete tanker ever built. Pelican Island was once an immigration entry station. Past the park, a tanker heads into the Ship Channel.(image ©)

A ferry headed to Galveston dock past a tanker with tug boat beside it. This is not an anchorage and unclear why the tanker is sitting there unless disabled. Not an anchorage. Probably empty since the red part on the hull would be under water if loaded. (Image: ©)

Point Bolivar Lighthouse on Bolivar Peninsula, TX. Built in 1872, it’s red brick covered with riveted iron plates and used to be painted with black and white bands. During the 1900 Storm that destroyed Galveston, 125 people sheltered inside this lighthouse and all survived. At one point the strong winds made the structure sway so much that the mechanical parts of the rotating light stopped working. The lighthouse keeper rotated the light by hand the rest of the storm. During the 1915 hurricane, also a devastating one with measured winds of 126 mph, 61 people survived the storm by sheltering there. A 11 foot storm surge broke open the bottom doors and washed away the tanks on the lower level that held the oil for the lamps. The light was dark for two days. In 1918  two cottages on stilts were built for the keeper, his assistant, and their families. Another lighthouse was built in a different location and this one was eventually sold by the government as surplus to the Boyt family (1950-ish). While it remains in the family’s hands and off-limits to the public, it and the cottages are seen in movies. The lamps and the reflector lens were removed and reassembled in the Galveston County Museum. Read more stories about the lighthouse and current owners here (Image:©)

Saying that Bolivar is quirky, eccentric, and often rowdy is an understatement. 

The cattle are back grazing in the peninsula’s coastal pastures amid shoulder-tall brush and wetlands.

Birds stand their ground on the roads and question your right to be there.

Fishermen line the jetties.

Colorful new beach houses line up like flocks of square seagulls along the sandy shore which is well known for wild spring breakers, weekend brawls, beaches you can still drive your car on, and lots rental beach houses.

New beach houses. Owning a beach house sounds wonderful until memories of September storms surface. Maybe beach houses are like horses: best if your neighbor has one and is willing to share.(boliverpeninsulatexas.com)

The Peninsula, named for the South American hero, Simón Bolívar, has a history is just as colorful as the new houses:

Shipwrecks, explorers, smugglers, pirates holding huge parties in the groves of giant oak trees, Native American and ancient burial grounds (and the state’s desperate efforts to keep people from carrying off early artifacts), the Audubon Society’s Bird Sanctuary, not to mention the recent bitter fight over Rollover Pass between the state, fishermen, and land owners (The pass originally got the name as ship captains/smugglers slipped goods past Galveston’s customs stations during Spanish rule and later during Prohibition. Barrels and goods – exports and imports – were secretly rolled across the narrow land to the transportation waiting on the opposite side.)

All that for another post…when it’s cooler and less crowded.

Meanwhile, view Bolivar’s webcams here.

On the ferry returning to Galveston. We did see the local dolphins dancing along side not far from here. Bolivar’s rock jetty is a favorite with fishermen. Behind them are tankers waiting in the gulf’s anchorage before entering Ship Channel to Houston’s port. (Image ©)

Yep, not even August and the heat is on here: 103 – 107 F. heat index. Good news and bad news:

Forecasters say that the huge plumes of fine Saharan dust blowing westward across Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf prevents tropical storm development.

So despite the extreme heat and the very warm waters, smooth sailing here so far. (But please pass the eye wash and tissues. I prefer my sand under a beach towel.)

Rollin’ over with waves from the sands

Phil, the Philosopher Mouse of the Hedge

Galveston’s bay side as seen from ferry. Buildings left to right: Coast Guard Station, UTMB Medical in center, right is Seawolf Park – and at the far right edge is a large number of jack up oil rigs waiting for refurbishing or to be towed out to a job site in the Gulf of Mexico. Oh, squint and you’ll see it all. I’m more into actually being there than walking around with a camera stuck in front of my face and struggling to get perfect pictures HAHA! (Image:©)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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